Today there are hundreds of different Chinese schnapps varieties. The so-called baijiu, white brew, or baigar, the white dry, are distillates made from grain that has fermented in a solid form, hereafter referred to as mash, unlike those made from liquid forms such as grape wines and other fruit juices. The alcoholic strength varies between 55 and 65 percent. They are divided up into groups according to their characteristics. It is primarily the different fermentation methods that create the various characteristics, the largest groups being qingxiang, jiangxiang and nongxiang. Those that may ferment in clay vats obtain a light and transient aroma and are called liquor with qingxiang, a light bouquet. An example of this is Fenjiu from Shanxi. The kind of mash made with yeasts that have been prepared under high temperatures, which also requires a larger amount of yeast than normally, ferments at a higher temperature. This yeast becomes very dark and gives the distillate a very special character that is comparable to the taste of soy, and is consequently called liquor with jiangxiang, soy bouquet. A typical example of liquor with this taste is Maotai from Guizhou.
Liquors that are fermented in earth cellars are affected by bacteria in the ground. This creates very special esters, acids and oils which are highly aromatic. Such liquor is called nongxiang, strong bouquet. These earth cellar produced so called great ferment spirits are mainly made in the Sichuan province. The three best ones are considered to be Mianzhu daqu, Wuliangye from Yibin and Luzhou laojiao daqu. I shall describe the latter in more detail - partly because the production process is absolutely unique, and partly for subjective reasons. These include its full-flavored aftertaste, its freshness and its light sweetness -- in short, because it is very good and pleasant to drink.
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